Fishing the Salt Flats in Tulum, Mexico

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Fishing the Salt Flats in Tulum, Mexico

Upon our arrival at the Boca Paila Fishing Lodge, one of the oldest Tulum hotels, at 7:30 am, we noticed the place was already jumping. Guests were finishing up breakfast and the guides were getting the last of their gear in the boats while being expertly directed by Chico, the general manager and the main host of the property. Clearly this was not the first time these guys had done this, in fact, Boca Paila has been around since the late 1960s. To say these guys are pioneers of fishing in this area is an understatement, they were the only game in town back then and it was a 2 hour drive from Tulum, not 20 to 30 minutes as it is now.

We came for the fishing and they were prepared for us. Subsequent to momentary introductions with Chico, he informed us that our boat and guide Alfonso was waiting on the pier for us. A quick examination of our tackle and off we went. Chico made certain we also had a number of the very best flies and jigs for the region and season before we departed and handed those to our guide Alfonso. Following, he personally escorted us to the boat.

Once on the water, Alfonso did not waste much time and we took off across the glass lagoon seeking our first fish of the day. There was a brief stop at a cut within the lagoon, where it meets the ocean, and Alfonso said we needed to stop for something there. Without giving freely all the secrets of the area, the stop proved to be relatively beneficial in the course of the day.

Following the stop, we made our way to the first of many of what I imagine are Alfonsos preferred spots inside this magical lagoon. There awaited, at the very least, thirty miles of nearly unaffected and guarded wetlands and interrelated unaffected waterways.

Alfonso killed the engine as we arrived at the opening spot and he started poling us across the black rooted mangrove shoreline as he surveyed the water with his proficient vision. Within 10 minutes, he saw the bone fish and we were directed to "11 'o clock about 30 feet out," and then the rapid plea to "strip it, strip it, strip it!" We followed our guides command and bingo! My Dad had our primary fish on. Inside two minutes, an additional good sized bone fish was caught and released by me. This was going to be fun!

Further along the shore, Alfonso continued to survey the waters from his 3 foot platform for the next catch. This time, it was Permit and I had one on the line. If you have never caught a Permit fish with a fly rod or even just light tackle, it is hard to explain the amount of excitement this generates. It had been average size for the area, about ten pounds, but it fought for 15 minutes before relenting and subsequent to a quick photo, released. What a charge and what a ravishing fish!

A few more Bone Fish and a mixed bag of Jack, Mud Snapper and Porgy and off we went to the next spot. I thought to myself, if all of the spots are like that, one of my arms might not make it the day. We had various issues using the line on my rod and had to return to the lodge for different line, which took Alfonso no time at all to get back up and running.

Subsequent to about an hour of poling along in the briny waters, near our opening prize pool, we had caught a number more of the undesired Snappers, Jack and Porgy so we decided to move down again. I ought to remark that there is seldom a dull instant on the lagoon. Even when you are not catching fish, there is a lot to see. In the course of the day, we probably saw twelve rays of varied species and witnessed a number of cases of Mullet boiling, bursting and leaping from the water to flee from a striking Barracuda and countless birds of numerous species and colors. We also saw a nesting couple of Sea Eagles (Osprey).

We crossed the lagoon, at elevated speed, for an afternoon of fishing before gliding in, engine off and back to the poling for Alfredo. I should mention that Boca Paila Fishing Lodge has an especially able fisherman and guide in Alfonso. I did not see a tenth of what he spotted for us. Of course, he was sitting up three feet higher than us, but he was amazing.

Just before lunch, I caught my second Permit and this one was closer to fifteen pounds and he wanted to run. The Permit are quite common in the Tulum, Boca Paila area of the lagoon so I should not have been too surprised to see Alfonso making lunch while I fought this fish. What did surprise me was that when I said "I think he's coming in, grab the net", Alfonso did not move. The fish gave me my answer when he took off on another long run and I caught a wry smile from Alfonso and went back to my fish. Another 10 minutes and I did finally land that one, and yes, Alfonso had the net ready this time.

Subsequent to lunch, which was wonderful by the way, a ham sandwich, chips and a beer. After being in the sun for four to five hours, it had been one of the best lunches I have had in a while. Alfonso showed us the Mexican way of adding some hot sauce into the sandwiches and it was awesome. We moved nearer to shore and once more started to stalk the next catch. It had been hot and the fishing seemed to slow a little inside the afternoon heat, but Alfonso was persistent and when he caught me sitting on the bow he demanded that I stand up. "You can't catch fish sitting down! Stand up !" I was up straight away and was somewhat embarrassed but that ended instantly after I hooked into an additional Permit. This one was somewhat smaller, in all probability 8 pounds, but the fight lasted ten minutes and the thrill was without doubt not gone.

We stalked a few more small groups of Bone Fish and Permit pairs, landing a few more run of the mill sized Bone Fish before moving on once again. This occasion, as we came across the new spot, Alfonso informed us that this was a sizable channel and one of the deeper parts of the lagoon. Still only twelve to fifteen feet deep but we changed up the tackle and went to a large jig with a heavy leader. I am guessing about 20 to 25 pound test.

This is where things got very interesting: We must have hit that channel as a school of baitfish were passing through or had just passed because it was a feeding frenzy! The first casts for both my father and I produced two large Snook in the twenty pound range, pretty good fights for both, but pound for pound I think the Permit is tough to beat. Anyway, as things got crazy, and cast after cast produced larger and larger Snook, I started thinking about the elusive "Super Slam"; Bone Fish, Permit, Snook and Tarpon. I would have been thrilled to have such a great day and fall short but then as if on queue another big strike and out of the water it came! The Tarpon ran past the boat at full speed then made a run back with another spectacular jump. While it was relatively small for a Tarpon at about ten pounds, it was the icing on a perfect day of fishing.

We stayed at the channel for another twenty minutes or so and I was so tired and completely satisfied, that I handed my rod to Alfonso. I watched him catch a few more Snook while my Dad did the same and brought in a couple more Bone Fish for good measure.

All in all, I must say that this was the best day of fishing EVER. Between the company, the Boca Paila Fishing Lodge services and the amazing number of fish we caught, this one is going to be tough to beat. I want to once more personally thank the team at Boca Paila for this excellent experience we will both never forget!

About the Author

Ron Williams is a freelance travel writer living year round in Tulum, Mexico specializing in information about Tulum hotels , Playa del Carmen travel deals and life on the Yucatan Peninsula. Feel free to contact Ron directly if you need local tips or information.